Heating Cooling Services Cromwell CT

I began by shutting off the power to the unit to ensure safety. Next, I carefully removed the existing evaporator coil and the old drain pan. After that, I installed a new drain pan, ensuring it was properly aligned and secured. I then reinstalled the evaporator coil, making sure all connections were tight and secure. Following this, I re-piped the drain line, ensuring it was correctly routed and connected. Once everything was reassembled, I turned the unit back on, started the system, and tested it for proper operation. Finally, I checked the drain line for any leaks, confirming that everything was functioning correctly.

I conducted a comprehensive preventive maintenance check on the oil furnace. This included brushing and vacuuming the flue pipe and heat exchanger to ensure optimal airflow and efficiency. I replaced the oil filter, nozzle, and strainer to maintain the system's performance and longevity. All electrical connections and safety mechanisms were meticulously checked for integrity and proper function. I also performed combustion and smoke tests to verify the furnace's efficiency and safety. During the inspection, I noticed that the wire connector for the A/C on the furnace control board had charred up, damaging two adjacent wire terminals and causing some browning around the A/C terminal on the control board. I informed the customer about the issue, replaced the damaged wire terminals, and removed the affected section of the wires. After these repairs, I started the A/C system, which operated without any issues. However, the browning on the control board may lead to future complications, so

Upon arrival, the unit was found to be shut off, and the drain line was on the floor with broken PVC threads from the drain pan. I first assessed the damage and determined that the remaining threads were insufficient for reattachment. To address this, I threaded in a 1/2 nipple, ensuring it was securely fastened. I then attached a corrugated flex hose over the nipple, using Teflon tape and pipe dope to seal any gaps and prevent leaks. This temporary solution should allow the unit to drain properly until a new drain pan is installed. The unit is now operational, and the temporary fix will hold until further repairs are made.

Upon arrival, I discovered the PVC drain line on the floor, with cracked and broken threads inside the drain pan. I inserted a 3/4” nipple into the threads, successfully catching one thread, but the pan may still leak. I recommended replacing the drain pan. Next, I turned the system on, and the air handler started with a call for cooling. The condenser buzzed from the contactor, but nothing ran. I identified a faulty capacitor, replaced it, and restarted the system. I checked the pressures, added 1 lb 10 oz of R-410A refrigerant, and the discharge temperature was 54°F.

AC System Replacement: Responded to a home where the AC was failing to cool multiple rooms. Found a failing compressor and refrigerant leak in the outdoor unit. Removed the old system and installed a new high-efficiency air conditioner. Reconnected all ductwork, charged the refrigerant to specification, verified airflow and thermostat calibration, and performed multiple cooling cycles. Home now maintains even temperatures and improved energy efficiency.

Commercial Heating Installation: Installed a rooftop gas furnace for a small office building to replace an outdated system. Connected ductwork, gas, and electrical lines, calibrated thermostats for zoning control, and performed startup and full-load testing. Verified even heating across all office spaces and confirmed system safety compliance.

Upon arrival, I began by assessing the system to identify the source of the loud noise. I removed the air filter from the cabinet and closed the door, which immediately silenced the noise. After inserting a new 4-inch filter, the noise ceased entirely. I then inspected the return grills and noticed a fine layer of dust on the old filter, which was obstructing airflow to the blower. This restriction caused the blower to work harder, increasing its speed and creating the noise. The issue was resolved by replacing the filter, ensuring the system operates efficiently and quietly.

Tankless Water Heater Repair: The homeowner reported fluctuating water temperatures during showers. I inspected the unit and found mineral scaling in the heat exchanger and a partially clogged inlet filter. I performed a full descaling flush, cleaned and reseated the filters, verified proper flow rate, and restored consistent hot water production.

There was a noise coming from the blower section. When the air filter is removed when the blower is on, the noise stops. Inserted the filter back in and the noise started. Checked the blower and returns. There is nothing blocking the returns. The air filter is dirty with a fine dust restricting the air flow inserted a 1” filter until the customer purchases a new 4” filter.

Installed a new high-efficiency heating system for a homeowner in Cromwell, CT. Their old unit was over 20 years old and struggling to maintain consistent warmth. The new system will provide better efficiency, lower energy costs, and improved comfort. I also upgraded the thermostat for better temperature control. The homeowner was happy with the upgrade just in time for the last few cold weeks of the season.

Replaced an old, inefficient water heater in Cromwell, CT with a new high-efficiency unit. The previous water heater was struggling to keep up with demand and had multiple leaks forming around the base. The new unit will provide consistent hot water, better energy efficiency, and a longer lifespan. The homeowner was relieved to have reliable hot water again.

The circulator relay panel did not have any lights on it. The breaker was tripped. Reset the breaker and about 1 minute later it tripped again. After resetting, checked the amps at the relay panel, 2.4 amps., there was a boiler is drawing 1.9 amps. That is not enough to trip a 20 amp breaker. There may be something else on the circuit or the breaker is going bad. Need to have an electrician take a look at the breaker.

Brushed and vacuumed flue pipe and heat exchanger Replaced oil filter, nozzle, and strainer Checked all electrical connections and safeties Performed combustion and smoke tests 5.7%o2 30ppm co 0 smoke Replaced 3 6” flue pipe 90’s and 2 sections of flue pipe due to corrosion.

During the repair of a Rheem Performance Platinum 50-Gallon water heater, I identified a failed heating element and a malfunctioning thermostat. The heating element had corroded, leading to insufficient hot water production. I replaced both the lower heating element and the thermostat with OEM parts. After reassembling, I tested the unit to ensure it was delivering consistent and optimal hot water performance.

Upon arrival removed old control board. Wired in the new control board and redid some burnt connections. Started and tested the fan operation in the heating mode and just by itself. Unit is working properly.

Upon arrival unit was off. Turned unit on and the burner turned on and then turned off on high limit but the blower motor never turned on. Checked the capacitor and it was good. Checked power coming off of the board onto the fan terminal and had no power. Jumped incoming power over to the fan wire and the fan turned on properly. The control board is not sending power to the fan to turn on even though it should be. Need to return to replace the control board.

Visually inspected indoor evap coil and blower compartment Checked all electrical connections and safeties Checked volts and amps Visually inspected air filter. Rinsed condenser coil Blew out drain line and poured water to ensure properly draining Tested condensate pump Checked refrigerant levels Checked capacitor Took temps After getting customer authorization we replaced the capacitor due to it being under factory specifications

Upon arrival found the flue pipe to be paper thin and falling apart. Repair was quoted out at $285. The homeowner approved of the repair for $285. Removed section of old flue and installed new flue pipe in its place. After repairing flu pipe, an oil maintenance was performed. Brushed and vacuumed soot and debris from the heat exchanger. Checked electrical connections and safeties. Performed a combustion test on unit, unit is running at 5.4% O2, 20ppm CO, with zero smoke. 30 dollar discount was added for heating maintenance.

Removed old timer control board and replaced with new one. Started and tested unit. Unit is running at 8.6%o2 20ppm co. Unit is working properly. Need to return to replace mixing valve gaskets. Took pictures and uploaded them to companycam.

Upon arrival the compressor and the suction line was iced up. Because it was so hot out the ice melted quickly. We found the air filter was extremely dirty. Replaced the air filter. It was a 25x16x1. The humidifier that was on the back of the furnace has melted and left a gaping hole in the ductwork. It was disabled and non functional so We removed the humidifier and patched the ductwork. I had to add 2lbs of r22 refrigerant. There was a 18*f delta t. The unit is working properly. The unit is from 2001. Also noticed that the flue pipe for the furnace was paper thin and very brittle. Will need to quote out a price to replace it before heating season.