Keep Your Home Comfortable With Quality HVAC Services In Hamden CT
X-Treme Temp Heating & Cooling is your go-to HVAC service provider in Hamden, CT! We’re the experts in home comfort year-round, from AC and heating repair to ductwork and water heaters. We’ve got you covered from installation to maintenance so you can have peace of mind about your heating and air conditioning.
Read the reviews below from Hamden, CT residents to see what your neighbors say about our expertise and customer service. We can’t wait to work with you!
for Hamden, CT
Our Reviews by City
TE - Hamden, CT 06518
Andrew was a wonderful young man. He was most courteous and very helpful in explaining what was needed to be done on the boiler.
Chis - Hamden, CT 06518
Courteous, on time, efficient , professional
Laura Roberts - Hamden, CT 06518
Excellent and prompt
Christine - Hamden, CT 06518
Courteous technician fixed our unit quickly. Great price.
Very professional service
candice - Hamden, CT 06517
Joe - Hamden, CT 06518
Bernadette - Hamden, CT 06517
The technician was friendly and professional answered all my questions. The answering personal working the phones are also wonderful. Would highly recommend
John - Hamden, CT 06514
Andrew was very nice , respectable and polite polite.
Drain pressure out of the boiler. Remove old boiler gauge and replace with a new one. Fill system back up with water and purge all air out of the system. Start and test the boiler. Ensure hot water is coming back to the boiler on the return.
Upon arrival unit was on and running. Upon inspection found that there was a large amount of air in the system causing one of the zones to get air bound and not have heat. Attempted to purge the zones and found that the autofeed was not letting enough pressure into the system to purge all air out. After getting customer authorization we replaced the autofeed backflow combo. Purged most air out of the 4 zones. While purging the air we found the pressure gauge is stuck at 22 and is not moving. Need to return on Wednesday to replace the pressure gauge and finish getting all air out of the system.
Upon arrival found a small drip underneath the burner and a small drip under the oil filter canister. Replaced the filter gaskets and filter and found that before the canister was fully full it was dripping from the bottom. Upon further inspection found there was some rust on the inside of the canister and it is possible there is a small pinhole leak forming. Replaced the filter canister and gaskets. Bled air from the filter canister and did not see any further leaks. Also found that the nozzle had started to go bad and was dripping inside of the blast tube. This would cause the oil to run back down the blast tube and drip from the bottom of the burner. Replaced the nozzle and started and tested the system. Unit is working properly
When arrived the water heater burner was off on reset. Reset the control and it started. Checked the oil flow which was strong and clean. Checked the transformer, the spark was weak which will cause the burner to trip intermittently. Replaced the transformer, started and tested several times. System is operating properly.
The primary control was off on a hard lockout. Reset the control. The burner did not start. Checked oil flow. Bled oil line. Customer was out of oil.
Brushed and vacuumed flue pipe and heat exchanger Replaced oil filter, nozzle and strainer Checked all electrical connections and safeties Performed combustion and smoke tests 5.4%o2 23ppm co 0 smoke While performing the maintenance we found that there was air in the lines. Notified the customer and recommended purging the zones. After getting customer authorization we purged both zones of all air. Started and tested the boiler and had hot water coming back. Boiler pressure when leaving was 18/19
Brushed and vacuumed flue pipe and heat exchanger Replaced oil filter, nozzle and strainer Checked all electrical connections and safeties Performed combustion and smoke tests 5.1%o2 2ppm co 0 smoke
Brushed and vacuumed flue pipe and heat exchanger Replaced oil filter, nozzle and strainer Checked all electrical connections and safeties Performed combustion and smoke tests 5.1%o2 0ppm co 0 smoke
Upon arrival started to perform leak search. Inspected evaporator coil, condenser coil, and lineset where accessible. Did not see any traces of us dye. Started and tested the system and had roughly the same pressures as after the refrigerant was added. The leak could be a pinhole and just starting to form causing refrigerant levels to not drop at a significant rate. Recommend evaluating the system next year.
Upon arrival unit was off. Turned unit on and both air handler and condenser turned on. Hooked up temp sensors and saw that the return was 89 and the supply was 115. Checked the heating pipes at the hydro coil and found that hot water was flowing to the coil so the heat and the ac were running simultaneously. Upon further investigation found the zone valve for that air handler had failed in the open position and the boiler was pumping hot water to that coil. Disconnected wires for the zone valve and had no more water flowing to that hydro coil. Need to replace the zone valve before the heating season. Unit is working properly. Had 129/365 for pressure and had 10 subcooling which is within manufacturers specs.
Upon arrival noticed the pressure relief was dripping even though the boiler pressure was only 20 indicating the pressure relief had gone bad. Drained the pressure from the boiler and removed the old pressure relief. Replaced with new pressure relief and filled the system back up with water. Purged all air from the system. System is working properly at this time. Also found that the hi-vent had been leaking water in the past and is no longer functioning properly. Looked in company notes and found the hi-vent and extrol tank had been recommended to replace at the last visit. Recommend replacing the hi-vent and extrol tank. The unit may not run properly in the future if these are not replaced
Visually inspected indoor evap coil and blower compartment Checked all electrical connections and safeties Checked volts and amps Visually inspected air filter. Replaced with company supplied Rinsed condenser coil Blew out drain line and poured water to ensure properly draining Tested condensate pump Checked refrigerant levels Checked capacitor Took temps Chemically cleaned evap coil due to high level of dust and debris buildup. Need to purchase correct filter size which is 20x22x1 Recommend returning to preform a deep chemical cleaning of the condenser coil due to high levels of lint and debris buildup. Call to schedule after the dryer vent has had a trap added or has been diverted. The buildup could lead to issues with the unit if not taken care of.
Turned system on. Went outside and checked condenser. Condenser fan is running but no compressor. Checked capacitor and capacitor is bad and needs to be replaced. Replaced the capacitor and started the system. Checked pressures. Subcooling was at 1.4*, manufacturer calls for 10 + or - 3. Added 1 lb 12 oz R-410a to system. 11.5* subcooling after adding refrigerant. System is operating properly.
Removed old zone panel and all thermostats on the second floor. Installed new zone panel, 2 T10 thermostats, and connected all associated wiring. Started and tested the system in both heating and cooling on both thermostats. Unit is operating properly.
Drained old water heater and removed burner and ez temp control. Cut water lines and removed old water heater. Installed new water heater and reconnected water lines. Attached old burner and ez temp control. Installed new flue pipe and applied furnace cement. Installed new nozzle for the burner. Started and tested water heater. Unit is running at 5.6%o2 50ppm co 0 smoke
Visually inspected indoor evap coil and blower compartment Checked all electrical connections and safeties Checked volts and amps Visually inspected air filter. Replaced with customer supplied Rinsed condenser coil Blew out drain line and poured water to ensure properly draining Tested condensate pump Checked refrigerant levels Checked capacitor Took temps After obtaining customer approval we added 1 lb R410A to the system to bring the refrigerant charge back to the factory specifications
Checked system. Replaced air filter which was dirty. Had customer return both zones on. Checked outside, fan was running but compressor was not. Checked capacitor it was rated for 40/5 MFD. It was reading 7/4MFD. The compressor side of the capacitor is bad. Recommended replacing. Installed new capacitor, the compressor still didn’t start. Checked the windings on the compressor and checked the wires going to the compressor. The start and common windings are open (broken internally). The compressor needs to be replaced. The condenser is 5 yrs old. Need to call supplier and check the warranty.
Customer wanted us to inspect both systems to ensure there are no major issues. Did not want us to perform a maintenance. Upstairs system has 4 thermostats. Customer would like us to get ride of a few zones. Need to set up a quote to have Larry come out to look at ductwork and zoning issues. Customer would also like the vents in the master bedroom moved form the floor to the ceiling. Found the capacitor for the system was bad. Replaced. Started and tested. The system is working properly in ac and heat. First floor system had several issues. The capacitor ad contactor were both bad In The condenser. Replaced both. Also found the compressor heater was bad as well. Disabled the heater for the time being as it’s not needed for the summer. It is a heat pump but I was not able to find any thermostats that turned it on. They only turned on the primary heat which was a hot water coil. Started and tested the system is both heat and ac. Found no other issues.
Performed AC p.m. on 2 ductless systems. Wash air filters, checked drains and wire connections. Checked system in both heating and cooling. Both systems are operating properly. The larger indoor unit, has a broken hinge. Recommend replacing before the door falls off and does not latch. Both blower wheels are clean. The pad for the larger unit is tilted due to the rain and not having gutters. The customer is going to put rocks around the pad.
Performed a ac maintenance. Changed the filter. Cleaned the coils. Inspected electrical. Checked the refrigerant levels and found the system was very low. I had 28psi on the suction side. My super heat was 54* and it should have been around 12*. Customers would like a quote for anew system. System is from 1988.
Upon arrival unit was on but it was off on reset. Checked oil flow and had good flow. Checked oil filter and strainer and both were good. Checked nozzle and saw it was dripping and had some carbon buildup beneath it. Replaced nozzle and started unit. Had a large puff back due to a large amount of unburnt oil in the firing chamber. Cycled unit on and off multiple times to burn residual oil and then started the unit. Preformed combustion and smoke tests. Unit is working properly. 7.7%o2 50ppm co 0 smoke
Heating Service & Boiler Repair - Brushed and vacuumed flu pipe and heat exchanger, Replaced oil filter, nozzle, and strainer, Checked all electrical connections and safeties, Performed combustion and smoke tests, 8.0%o2 21ppm co 0 smoke While preforming the maintenance found that the boiler had leaked internally in the past and had caused corrosion and a partial blockage of one of the sections of the boiler. Showed customer the corrosion and recommended replacing the boiler sometime in the near future.
Upon arrival unit was on but not currently running. Customer had stated the reset light was coming on and when the reset button was pushed the unit would fire up and run with no problem. Checked oil flow and had good flow. Checked igniter and had good spark. Checked nozzle and found the nozzle spray pattern was off and it had been dripping for some time causing slight carbon buildup inside the blast tube. Replaced nozzle and started and tested unit. Cycled unit on and off multiple times. Unit is operating properly 7.2%o2 31ppm co 0 smoke
Performed a heating p.m. on a oil steam boiler. Replaced oil filter nozzle and strainer. Brushed and vacuumed the boiler. Could not open the front clean out door going into the chamber, Due to the bolt being seized and rusted, did not want to break the bolt. Also could not loosen the bolts for the burner flange plate. Cleaned out the chamber through the burner blast tube period started and performed a combustion test, 5.9% O2, 27 ppm CO, zero smoke. System is operating properly. Check safeties. Recommend having the chimney cleaned by a chimney company. There is debris in the chimney from the floor to 3 inches below the flue pipe penetration in the chimney.
Removed 14” pipe from return side of furnace and installed a new 16x25 return box with a built in filter rack. Attached new 14” flex to return box and attached it to the existing return boot. Removed sections of 10” hard pipe and ran new pipe in its place to reduce the length of flex on the individual runs, and to remove kinked sections of flex. Also removed supply grill and installed a new 8x8x6 supply boot and reinstalled the supply grill. Turned system on to test everything. the noise level of the return has been drastically reduced, and the far runs are now getting adequate air flow.